Kanoyama

I made a happy discovery tonight at Kanoyama: the early-bird special. It includes such entrees as tempura don, salmon roe and sea urchin over rice, and eel over rice. I ordered the tekka don: rosy-pink slices of tuna blanketing perfectly vinegared sushi rice, accompanied by a romaine salad with mellow carrot-ginger dressing, two kinds of pickles, smoky bonito miso soup, sweet hijiki carrot salad, two slices of omelette sushi, and the Japanese version of potato salad (full of cucumbers and onions). All for $14!

Kanoyama: 175 2nd Ave., (212) 777-5266. The early-bird dinner is served until 7 p.m. on the weekdays and 8 p.m. on the weekends.